Smart Gardening Tips

Pest Control Approaches

Chemical horticulture fights off invasive pests with specific insecticides. They may be effective and fast-working at the beginning, but their long-term use may result in the raise of the insects resistant to the used insecticide. To kill those, more efforts will be needed, and the use of the different and stronger chemicals may be necessary. Moreover, killing enemies in the garden, any insecticide will inevitably eliminate predator insects (natural control bugs). And their lack will cause multiplying of the harmful pests. Consequently, a gardener will have to search for some other options to defeat the invasive populations.  

Organic horticulture, on the other hand, offers pests control through the studying and understanding their life cycles and peculiarities, as well as through the combined use of such methods as:

-           plants selection (pests and disease resistant plants are chosen for a garden);

-           companion plants growth (planting those crops that fight off pests and insects);

-           annual changing of the plants location to disrupt the reproduction cycles of the invasive species;

-           the use of row covers during the periods of pests migration;

-           employing insects traps to reduce the population of the pests;

-           increasing the number of predator insects and beneficial organisms.

In addition, organic gardeners usually allow some pests to live in the garden, carefully controlling their level though.

All of the mentioned methods have also additional benefits in the organic garden, as fertilization, soil protection, pollination, season extension and water conservation, despite of the fact that their influence and results usually take some time to become obvious. To sum it up it is possible to say that biological and organic pest control can be constituents of the integrated pest management (IPM). Nevertheless, the latter can also utilize chemical pesticides to eliminate harmful insects, although these do not belong to the biological or organic means.

Soil

Soil control and management are the important things in gardening. They offer the possibility to keep the garden healthy and strong, which is the key factor in the prevention of diseases and pests invasion onto the plants. One of the ways to success is providing the garden with humus and organic matter.



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With the old familiar variety of garden hoses as well as black Poly irrigation systems, there are two major problems that occur along the length of the hose or pipe, one is cracking and/or splitting of the hose/pipe and the second problem is the familiar kinking of the hose/pipe. So what can you do about it besides going out and buying a new hose or roll of poly’ pipe? Well there is at least one repair method that should help with either problem. Without the cost and problems of putting expensive joiners into your watering system.

Split Hoses/Pipes

What do you do once your garden hose or irrigation pipe has developed a crack or split after your son has mowed over it or you’ve managed to drive over it once too often?

With either type of system, you could cut out the section of the damaged hose or pipe and put in a joiner, but sometimes this is impractical or impossible. Then why not look at repairing it instead of replacing it. Use the same method as you would for a kinked hose. Which is listed below.

Kinking Hoses/Pipes

Once a garden hose or irrigation pipe has jack-knifed back on itself at a particular spot, it will continue to do so for the life of the hose/pipe. This is because it has become weakened at that point. Again you have the option to cut out the weakened area and join the remaining parts of the hose. Or you will have to look at repairing the weakened area to stop it kinking in future, you can do this by bracing the weakened area/s by the following method . . .

What you will need to repair split/kinked hoses or irrigation pipes

An excess section of garden hose or irrigation pipe A Sharp knife or blade Container of hot water Measure and cut off a small section of hose/pipe, approximately three inches long, or as long as is needed to cover over the weakened or broken area. Cut this section down its length on one side only.

Soften the hose or pipe section in hot water. Open it up and wrap this like a bandage around the weakened section of hose/pipe.

This acts like a splint over the weak area, strengthening it so that at that point it will not kink or fountain out water anymore.

If you are repairing a split area of the hose you may have to look at sealing the hose with something like a silicon sealant. But you will find that simply putting the hose splint will greatly reduce and/or stop the leak.

The hose or pipe splint will not move off of the weakened or split area because it rehardens fairly quickly as it cools, this tightens its grip over the weak part of your hose/pipe.

Repeat this procedure for other areas that are split or are prone to kink of the garden hose or irrigation pipe that you are using.

So if that garden hose or irrigation system of yours is split in one or more places or is kinking all the time, and it is frustrating you no end, then do something other than throwing it out. Either repair it or at least keep the old hose or pipe to repair your future watering systems.



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Hydroponics gardening or growing plants in the growing media other than soil has been known to humans since ancient times. It is known that during the times of King Solomon, people practiced soil-less gardening, which later became known as hydroponic gardening.

The word “hydroponics” is derived from two Greek words: “hydro”, which means water, and “ponics”, which stands for labor. The principles of gardening without the use of soil were developed many and many years ago. Since then this type of gardening demonstrates certain valuable benefits in comparison to traditional growing plants in soil. One of the key benefits is that hydroponic plants grow 30-50% faster than plants, grown under the typical conditions in soil.

Traditional organic gardeners have always demonstrated certain level of contempt for hydroponics as the type of efficient and successful gardening. The followers of the traditional soil gardening consider hydroponics to be a kind of chemical gardening. Organic gardeners have always been pretty pessimistic as to supplying their plants with a balanced and calculated set of chemicals, which is a common practice among hydroponics gardeners. However, such an attitude of wide publicity and professional gardeners to hydroponics had changed after Steve Fox demonstrated his achievements in hydroponics gardening.

One of the key components of hydroponics gardening is growing media, an inert material, which unlike soil, does not supply any chemicals or nutrients to the plant. There are multiple types of growing media used today. The examples are sand, gravel, coconut fiber, perlite, and vermiculite. Amazingly, but even air can be used as a growing media for growing hydroponic cultures under the certain conditions.   

The undeniable benefit of hydroponic gardening is that it protects the fertile soils from exhaustion. Besides, it does not presuppose the use of chemical pesticides and other chemicals, which are extremely harmful for the environment. In general, hydroponic gardening may ensure greater yields and, at the same time, let the fertile soil regenerate itself for further organic farming.

Though hydroponic gardening also uses some of the chemicals to feed the growing plants, all the chemical plant fertilizers and nutrients are contained within the enclosed area of hydroponic greenhouse and do not spoil the open air, water or fertile soil.



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Would you like a more natural alternative to using those plastic planter containers? Well, here is a project for you, where you can have an interesting planter during the growing season, then throw the container out in the garden for mulch, without having to add to the world’s landfill problems.

These planters can be used and grown anywhere you can provide good plant growing conditions, including on a patio, pathway or even a roof top. The main criteria being enough sunlight for the plants chosen, easy access to water and an ease of access to maintain the planter/s.

Just follow the steps below.

What you will need

· One or more rectangular bales of hay, (One per planter).

· 4 to 8 seedlings or small plants per planter.

· One to two good handfuls of soil/compost/potting mix per plant.

· Small garden handtools.

· Hose/watering can.

· Liquid fertilizer.

· Area chosen to provide enough light for growing conditions required by plants selected.

Steps

Take one rectangular bale of hay; flip it on its side so that the straps are around the sides not over the top and bottom.

Moisten the hay bale thoroughly with a hose or watering can.

Using the handle of a hand tool, dig four to eight holes in the new upper surface of the hay bale, these holes have to be big enough to hold a good handful of soil.

Into each hole, place a handful or two of compost, soil or potting mix.

Plant up your choice of annuals, herbs or short-lived perennials.

· Water the plants in well and fertilize them with a liquid fertilizer.

· Because of the air gaps in the hay, this type of planter can dry out more quickly than a normal planter, so regular watering is essential.

· Also remember that your planter is actually decomposing while you are using it so remember to regularly fertilize the plants growing in it. Because nutrients may become temporarily unavailable during the decomposition process.

After you have finished growing your plants, move it out to the garden, take the straps off the bale, and use it to mulch/fertilize a part of your garden. You will find that the centre of the bale has decomposed into compost nicely by this stage.



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In this country, window box gardening offers apartment dwellers the enjoyment of container gardening from within or without. If you live in just one room or on a very small property, you, too, can have a window box garden filled in spring with pansies and primroses, in summer with petunias or fuchsias, and in fall with chrysanthemums. In winter, greens and berries, like bittersweet or California pepper berries with pine, give color. English Ivy will provide trailing green all winter if kept out of the wind.

For the best results in a window box gardens, the box ought to be at least three to four feet long but not more than six feet. If larger, it is way too heavy to suspend and secure properly, and it cannot be lifted easily, even by two people. Boxes resting on broad window ledges and on firm porch railings might be eight feet long, but hardly more since moving them becomes too hazardous. Keep to a minimum depth of eight to nine inches, with a width of ten to twelve inches across the top. Of course, lengths must vary according to the window, or series of windows or railing to be decorated with window box gardening.

The most common material for window box gardens is wood. California redwood becomes a neutral gray if not painted, and cypress will last for years. Cedar is recommended, as is a good grade of white pine. Other materials include metals, which are attractive and, for the most part, light in weight. However, they have the disadvantage of conducting heat, thus overheating the soil in your window box garden. Other suitable and durable lightweight materials are plastic, fiberglass, spun glass, and Gardenglas.

If you are handy with tools, you can make your own window boxes of wood, following instructions in pamphlets from your nursery or garden center. Whatever plan you follow, get boards one to one and a quarter inches thick. (Thinner boards will warp and offer little insulation against summer heat.) To fasten, rely on brass screws rather than nails, which in a few years may push out and cause a box to fall apart. To make corners secure, reinforce with angle irons. Be sure to provide enough drainage holes in the bottom for water to pass through freely. Space half-inch holes six to eight inches apart when building your window box gardens.

When boxes are completed, treat the insides with a preservative to prevent rotting. Cuprinol or some other non-toxic material is excellent, but avoid creosote which is poisonous to plants. After the preservative has dried, apply at least two coats of good paint or stain.

Select a color which will not detract from the plants. Traditional dark green is satisfactory, though commonplace, unless you use a tint like apple green. Have in mind the colors of the flowers, especially of plants that trail over the sides. Dark flowers do not show up against dark paint. The same is true of white flowers against light surfaces, as white petunias against white or pale yellow boxes.

To hold window box gardens securely, use bolts or lag screws and treat them beforehand to prevent rusting. Leave an inch or so of space between the window box garden and house for the movement of air. If the box garden is to rest on a terrace or other solid surface, raise them on cleats or set up on bricks or blocks of wood so drainage holes won’t become clogged. Some space under boxes is also important for air circulation, which will dry up run-off water.

When you plant a window box garden, put an inch layer of broken flower pots, crushed brick, small stones or pebbles over the bottom to enable water to escape freely through the openings. Above this, spread a piece of wet burlap or a layer of moist sphagnum moss, old leaves, hard coal clinkers or cinders to prevent soil from washing into the drainage area.

All plants in window box gardening need rich soil for luxuriant growth. Space larger kinds—geraniums, coleus, and fuchsias-eight to ten inches apart; smaller kinds—lobelias, annual phlox, wax begonias, sweet alyssum, and browallia—six inches apart. An eight-inch-wide box accommodates two rows of plants, with the tall ones in back and the low ones along the front. Boxes, ten inches wide, take three rows of plants, tall, medium, and low for edging.

After planting, spread an inch mulch of peat moss or other mulch over the soil to delay drying out and keep weeds in check. In a month, give a liquid fertilizer and follow up with feedings every seven to ten days. Foliage fertilizers can also be applied, but only as a supplement to root feeding.

The choice of plants for window box gardens is limited only by size. Plants over a foot high do not look well unless boxes are exceptionally large. Otherwise, you can grow almost anything you want. For early spring, you might start with Dutch flower bulbs. In cold regions, these can be purchased already grown, or you can raise your own.

Try hyacinths with pansies or early tulips or daffodils interplanted with grape hyacinths, or basket-of-gold and arabis with scillas, chionodoxas, or leucojum. Include some English daisies and sweet-smelling wall flowers, so common in window box gardening in Western Europe. Violas, blue phlox, aubretia, and forget-me-nots are other possibilities.

The favorite plant in window box gardening is the geranium—red or pink for white, cream, or light or dark blue boxes; white for brown, blue, or red boxes. The familiar trailing variegated vinca is excellent with them. Thriving in sun or shade, the vinca needs constant pinching to prevent it from becoming too long. English and German ivies are other trailers for sun or shade. In the sun, low annuals, dwarf marigolds, lobelias and verbenas make nice edgings as does sweet alyssum, in white, purple or lavender. Petunias vie with geraniums in popularity, and any kind can be planted, though the balcony types have the advantage of trailing gracefully over the sides of the window box garden.

In shade that is open to the sky, as on the north side of a house, coleus grows superbly, with white-and-green kinds a handsome contrast for those with red-and-pink leaves. Coleus luxuriates in a rich soil and requires plenty of moisture. Pinch to keep bushy, and to improve appearance remove the spiked blue flowers, unless you especially like them. The Trailing Queen coleus is one of the best.

Other shade-tolerant trailing plants include English ivy and its varieties, creeping jenny, Kenilworth ivy, creeping fig, German ivy, variegated gill-over-the-ground, myrtle, wandering Jew, zebrina, achimenes, chlorophytum, star of Bethlehem or Italian bellflower, and strawberry begonia.

These are just a few hints on planting your window box gardens. Be creative with colors and texture. Window box gardening, so much like container gardening, will become your next favorite hobby.

Happy Window Box Gardening!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.



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For proper functioning and maintenance of greenhouses, certain essential greenhouse supplies and equipment are required.

The first important supply is the covering or glazing material of the greenhouse since it identifies the effectiveness and success of the greenhouse in terms of plant growing and maintenance. Glass covering provides impact on the aesthetic appearance and permanence of the greenhouse. Some of the weaknesses of glass covering include the disability of retaining heat and low insulating value. It is heavier and therefore needs stronger braces or frames. It is fragile, easy to break and doesn’t diffuse light so there’s a possibility of plant burning. It also requires contractor installation, which may affect the budget.

Plastic covering includes fiberglass, polycarbonate, acrylic sheets, and polyethylene film. Fiberglass is an alternative to glass since it is translucent enough to transmit light. You can purchase them in rolls or ridged sheets. The corrugation grids seal and overlap sides to avoid appropriate temperature inside the greenhouse from escaping.

Polycarbonate is the newest covering option, which appears to be stronger and more resistant to environmental impacts like fire. It is available in single, double and triple walled sheets. Single walled coverings are very popular in hobby gardener greenhouse. Double walled is used in sunshine easy growth and Juliana greenhouses which sustains balanced lighting. Triple wall is prevalent in cross-country greenhouses and are the most expensive.

Polyethylene film is the most popular and commonly used in the US since it is cheaper in comparison to other coverings. It is easy to maintain and can be used for 3-5 years depending on the thickness of poly and UV treatment. One of its drawbacks is it is easy to rip and tear.

The second most crucial supply is water. The following are choices on how to water the plants. First is by using a garden hose. It allows the gardener to provide one on one plant watering individually. Although with some greenhouse planters, it can be a problem when there is not much time and when one is on vacation.

The second option is thru drip irrigation system. This is very commonly in use since a tube delivers to each pot from a main water pipe and it uses a nozzle to control water dispersion. It is equipped with a timer for watering plants with less supervision. Third option is the overhead sprinkler system, which automatically waters plants faster; however, plants can be susceptible to unequal distribution of water. The fourth is the overhead misting system, which is important for humidifying the area but not as a main water source.

The third most important supply is the greenhouse thermometer, which provides information or records high and low temperatures inside the greenhouse. It serves as a reference of the wetness and dryness of the surroundings maintenance. The maximum and minimum thermometer uses a small needle to determine the temperature. Some thermometers provide the Ph, moisture content and humidity levels for proper monitoring of the plants. Market offers several types of thermometers like the indoor/outdoor thermometers with sensors, digital wall mounted, or tabletop type with humidity indicator plus soil thermometers for seedbeds and compost monitoring.

The fourth supply is the greenhouse frames. These are in use as skeletons for the greenhouse covering or glazing. The most commonly used frames include wood, aluminum, galvanized steel, and PVC. Wood is extremely popularly in sunrooms or homemade greenhouses. It provides attractive appearance and easy to design with accessories. It is heat containing and are considered to be heavier and larger, therefore allowing more shadow or shade in the greenhouse.

One weakness of wood frames is its proneness to deterioration because of damp atmosphere although there are wood frames that are element and insect resistant like the redwood and cedar. One can also use sealants to increase wood life. Aluminum is indeed the most expensive of all frame choices; however, it is rust, rot and break resistant. Galvanized steel frames are the strongest frames but it needs a heavier structure. PVC pipe frames are popular because it is cheaper, easy to install and portable.

The fifth important supply is the floor, which consists of the walkway and under bench areas. The walkway is best created when it is non-slippery, easy to clean and strong enough to resist everyday moisture and dirt. Some materials for the walkway may include stone, gravel, brick concrete, wood slits, and ground bark. The under bench areas usually use porous materials that can absorb moisture and at the same time allow easy water drainage. Some materials include gravel, sawdust, and ground bark. It also helps to use a sheet of woven weed barrier to avoid growth of weeds.

The sixth most important supply is the benches, which greenhouses use to allow gardeners enough space to work. They also function as shade to the plants. A good bench top allows water to drain and permits flow of fresh air.

The seventh supply is the lighting, which greatly affects the growth of plants. A specific greenhouse area or season creates an impact on the lighting and that’s why there is available artificial lighting for greenhouses.

The eighth supplies are the ventilation system. These include the fan shutter, exhaust fans, fan controls, roof vent openers, louver windows and circulation fans. Shutter fans permit air exhaustion and circulation. Some fan designs are corrosion resistant, quiet, easy to maintain and UV protected. Fan controls are receptacles that control the fan with installed thermostats. Automatic roof vent openers are easy to install which do not require electricity or batteries. Louver windows also help in air circulation. The ideal place for them is opposite the door. Some are adjustable and you can operate them manually or by automatic openers.

The ninth supply is the heating system. These include the electric heaters, small and large gas heaters and heat circulation fans. They function to distribute heat evenly all throughout the greenhouse. Recommended heaters must have automatic thermostats and shut off controls for safety. Gas heaters are in use particularly when electrical plugs are not available in the greenhouse. They are energy proficient and emit carbon dioxide and water.

The tenth supply is the shading system. Shade covers are popular during long hot summers to block about 20% of sun’s rays. They are particularly useful to plants, which are in need of less sunlight. Some factors that you may consider when choosing shade cover size include the greenhouse location, climate, and light requirement of the plants inside the greenhouse.

The eleventh supply is the staging equipments. A single tier with 2 feet height is an ideal set up for staging. However, for large greenhouses, it is best to use 2-3 tiers for maximum use of space. There are available small propagating frames, which are equipped with soil warming cables and air warming sides. Some come with built in thermostats.

The twelfth supply is the watering cans. Despite the availability of automatic irrigation systems, it is also essential to have watering cans. It helps in sustaining water in the greenhouse. A recommended can is a well-balanced one with long spouts to be able to refill water with ease.

The thirteenth supply is the dibbers. These are wooden hand tools handy for creating holes in the ground for plant seedlings and cuttings.

The fifteenth supply is the sieves. These help in soil sifting and compost making.

The sixteenth supply includes buckets, pots and trays, which serve as plant receptacles. These are very common garden supplies.

The seventeenth supply is the measuring jugs and sprayers. These help with pesticide maintenance.

The eighteenth supply is the protective netting. These help to trap insects and bugs, which can be detrimental to the growth of plants. One good example of netting is the plastic netting, which is very economical.

The nineteenth supply is the composting system. Composting system consist of recycling your waste products and using your compost bins and wire containers. These are popularly called commercial composters to make composting easy and manageable. They are easy to rotate and are secure from bugs and pests.

The twentieth supply is the fertilizer. Ideally, plants need to be fertilized once a month to provide the proper nutrients needed by the former.

The twenty-first supply is the hand tools. One must be sure that there are available plant scissors, cultivators, trovels, and weeders in the greenhouse.

The twenty-second need is the tie down kits. This tool will prevent the greenhouse from being blown off by the wind.

The twenty-third supply is the seed heat mats. This is primarily used to germinate seeds faster. Some mats are enclosed with lighting and watering instructions.

The twenty-fourth supply is the plant labels. These are used as aids in plant monitoring. It helps to save time when plants are labeled.

The last supply is the garden apparel used by the gardener. The market offers wide range of choices particularly with the shoes and hand gloves to be used inside the greenhouse. Gloves come with easy grip features while shoes are non-slippery in design and comfortable to use.



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Hydroponics Drip systems belong to those most frequently used worldwide. They are often employed in commercial facilities and provide good yields of long-term plants and vegetables as, for example, peppers and tomatoes. Drip hydroponic systems offer even better aeration rates than flood and drain systems, due to the partial dipping of the plants roots, which are, at the same time, protected from drying out. Additional aeration, created by water splashing down into the reservoir, is also present. 

Drip hydroponic systems have something in common with the yard drip irrigation system. The ducting from the pump branches out into smaller tubes, which supply nutrients to many plants. Nutrient rich water drips near the base of each plant stem. Then it flows down into the growing medium, where it can be easily absorbed by the roots of the plants. The access of the solution tickles down into the reservoir.

Hydroponic Drip systems can be on all the time; however, many gardeners prefer to water the plants for an hour and then turn the system off for another hour. The systems are also controlled with the timers, set according to the gardener’s preferences. Often it is recommended to experiment with the system to find out what schedule is best for the particular kind of plants you are growing.  

Building Your Own Drip System

It is very easy to build and modify the drip systems. In addition, they are inexpensive. One of the most convenient ways is to arrange your system as follows: the plants are grown in the pots with the growing medium. Individual pots are then placed on a tray, underneath of which is a reservoir for nutrient solution. The latter is supplied with the help of a pump.

The main tube, connected to the pump, can be ½ inches wide. It is also possible to use several similar tubes to branch off this line. Try to make the ducting as smooth as possible with the help of the ½ inches connectors/tees/elbows, avoiding kinks. Do not forget to block each tube with ½ inches compression end cap. Then put the tubes along the top edges of the pots.

Next step is to connect the drip rings to the ducting. For this purpose define the places where the drippers should be and pierce the holes there. Upon connecting the drippers make sure that they are facing down.

Plug in and turn on the pump to check whether the hydroponic Drip system is working properly.



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Hydroponics is the cultivation of plants in a nutrient rich solution rather than in soil. It involves growing plants inside without using real sunlight. The word hydroponics comes from two Greek words, meaning “water working”.

If you enjoy gardening, but have limiting factors such as very little gardening space, problems with pests or unsuitable weather conditions, then hydroponics could be the answer for you. For many people, the thought of successfully gardening indoors all year around has only been a dream. However, with hydroponics this is possible.

General hydroponics is a hobby many people are picking up today. Hydroponics is simpler than what most people think, and is proven to have several advantages over regular soil gardening. The following are some of the many benefits of growing plants using hydroponics:

Less space is required, and plants can be grown closer together. Growing plants with hydroponics is possible almost anywhere.

Less water is required as there is no soil which soaks it up before it reaches your plant’s roots. Hydroponics is great in areas where there are water restrictions, as less water is lost to evaporation. When you water your regular garden plants, approximately 10% of the water actually makes it to the plants.

No pests or diseases. You don’t have to worry about pest control, and because your plants are grown indoors, there are fewer problems with diseases such as mould and fungi.

Reduced maintenance time. Once your hydroponics system is set up, all you need to do is change the nutrient solution on a regular basis. This only takes a few minutes. There is no need for any weeding.

Types of plants grown with hydroponics:

Nearly all plants can be grown using hydroponics. The most common are vegetables such as tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, and peppers. Other plants include flowers and herbs.

Although hydroponics is possible for most plant species, a limiting factor is the amount of physical support required. If you are growing climbing plants, you will need to provide them with extra support.

Hydroponics supplies:

Hydroponics gardening supplies can be found at most good gardening stores nowadays. Before visiting your local store, it is a good idea to do some research online first, so you know what you need. You can also purchase supplies online.

Your grow lights are one of the most important factors for hydroponics gardening. Hydroponics stores sell individual parts as well as complete growing systems. These will include the hydroponics and lighting systems, fans, and timers, etc.

In conclusion, a hydroponics system will initially take a bit of time and effort to set up, but in the end it will be well worth it.



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Supermarket herbs

Many common kitchen herbs are now available from supermarkets as potted plants, but they can be tricky to keep going. However, the majority of these, such as basil, coriander and parsley, are actually a collection of seedlings crammed into the pot rather than a single established plant. You can use this to your advantage and it can be an easy, convenient way to get a lot of herb plants. Just separate the individual seedlings, and re-pot separately.

Growing from seed is the cheapest method for annual herbs. Cut parsley, coriander and chives to within 5cm of the base before re-potting, and separate the individual plantlets and re-pot each one in its own container. Take care when dividing coriander, parsley and basil, as they all resent having their roots disturbed. If basil has become leggy, you can re-plant it more deeply to encourage stronger growth.

How to grow basil

You can start sowing basil towards the end of March in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill. It’s very sensitive to cold and will blacken at the slightest hint of frost, so make sure your early sowings are protected. Once the young plants reach about 15cm tall, remove the shoot tip to encourage more leafy growth and a bushier plant. When the warmth of June arrives, you can sow another batch outside and move any indoor plants outside to the patio. Make a final sowing in August to give you fresh basil into autumn.

Alternatively, you can buy basil in posts from the supermarket or garden centre. Look for bushy plants with lots of side-shoots and no sign of flowering. You can then make more plants by taking cuttings.

Keep your basil in the sunniest spot that you can find – preferably a south-facing windowsill or patio, once there’s no risk of frost. Water sparingly and remove flower spikes – if these are allowed to mature, your plants will stop growing new leaves.

Pick individual leaves from the top of the plant and feed with a liquid fertiliser afterwards. Then leave it to grow again. If you find that you have a bumper crop at the end of summer, pick the lot and make it into pesto. It freezes really well if you leave out the parmesan, which can be added before use.

Recommended varieties of basil

Sweet basil, often sold as ‘Sweet Genovese’ has the classic basil taste. Greek basil is compact and bushy with tiny leaves, so there’s no need to chop them before cooking. ‘Green Ruffles’ has the classic basil flavour with a crinkly leaf texture, while ‘Thai basil’ is spicy and hot.

‘Cinnamon basil’ has a flavour rather like aniseed sweets, or for a fresh lemony tang try ‘Mrs Burns’ Lemon’. For ornamental use in window boxes or edging beds, try ‘Purple Ruffles’ for its crinkly purple leaves.

How to grow coriander

Coriander doesn’t like being moved, so it’s best sown where you want it to grow, either in the ground or in large pots. Sow in late spring or early summer, and in August sow some more in pots on the windowsill for a supply during autumn and winter. Well-drained soil in a sunny spot is essential for growing coriander, and if you’re growing it indoors on a windowsill, give it plenty of light and don’t over water.

Coriander is annoyingly quick to flower and set seed before it has produced much leaf, so it’s best to sow little and often. Watch out for fine, feathery leaves – a sure sign the plants are about to flower.

Keep picking mature leaves as and when you need them. Regular cropping should delay flowering, but once the plants do flower, allow them to set seed. The seed is ripe when it stops smelling unpleasant. Collect it and use in cooking, keeping some to sow for another crop.

Recommended varieties of coriander

If you want the leaves choose ‘Cilantro’ and ‘Leisure’, which are slow to form seeds. If it’s seed you’re after, go for Moroccan coriander.

How to grow rosemary

Rosemary is widely available as established plants in garden centres for planting in spring. For more plants, take cuttings from young shoots in spring or summer. Rosemary is slightly tender and needs a sunny, sheltered position in well-drained soil; it does well in chalky soils. If you are growing it in a container, add some grit to the compost to aid drainage and don’t over water. After flowering in March, trim into shape and feed.

You can pick leaves from this evergreen all year round. It’s a good idea to dry some leaves at the end of summer if you want to use lots of rosemary over the winter, or add a sprig to olive oil for salad dressings.

Recommended varieties of rosemary

The Common rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is the hardiest form and most used in cooking. ‘Miss Jessopp’s Upright’ is a more vigorous and upright variety and makes a good focal point in a herb bed. The Prostratus Group are low-growing forms ideal for the top of a wall or rock garden. Corsican rosemary has a more pungent scent.



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Organic gardening is a method of gardening in harmony with nature. It can be done with a minimal amount of cost by using methods of recycling organic matter that you already have on hand and the propagation of heirloom plants that are in your yard..

Saving money gardening takes planning. It is very easy to let the costs get out of hand when you purchase plants and other supplies for a garden, whether it be for a vegetable garden, flower bed and even landscaping. Once you put a plan together you just have to stick with it. The biggest mistake that is made is to many plants and supplies are purchased before a garden is planned out. It is very easy to go to a garden center and see all the plants that you want to plant, then come home to find out there isn’t enough room to plant them.

Methods like the propagation of existing plants in your own yard is a big way to save on landscape plants, recycling organic household along with yard waste is a great way to improve the soil in your gardens and supply nutrients to your plants.

Growing heirloom plants that are open pollinated is also away that you can save by collection and storing your own seeds for the following years to come. Having your own seeds on hand will also give you the ability to grow your own transplants and save on the cost of purchasing plants every year. Starting your own transplants isn’t that hard to do and the seeds can be started in containers that you already have around your house, egg cartons are great to use for starting your transplants in.

Planning your garden is the best way to garden on a budget.



Get All Your Gardening Supplies Here